Kakadu Birdlife When you drive along a road that just months before you cruised over in a boat, you come to understand that nature is in full control here, and we are just visiting… by David Munro

It wasn't that many years ago that Kakadu National Park seemed like one of those far away exotic destinations that I would often dream about, but never get to. Flood plains stretching off to the horizon, escarpments that seems to go on forever, and great groups of bird life that defy the imagination. Well, thanks to working for Territory Discoveries that dream has come true, twice.

The Wet

The contrast between visiting Kakadu in the wet and in the dry is incredible. Granted I have missed the seasons in between, but it’s hard to believe you’ve been there before, it’s just so different. When you drive along a road that just months before you cruised over in a boat, you come to understand that nature is in full control here, and we are just visiting…

The seasons also determine your wildlife experience at Kakadu. During the wet, water covers a vast area of the park, and therefore the birdlife is dispersed evenly throughout. But that doesn’t mean that you won’t see anything. Even on the drive into the park you are likely to see a whole range of birdlife, including magpie geese, whistling ducks, black-necked storks and the Territory’s emblem, the Brolga.

When you do get to cruise on the famous Yellow Water Billabong, the birdlife can at times be a little harder to spot. But with patience, and a keen eye, you can be rewarded with sightings of some of the little gems of the bird world, such as the azure and forest kingfishers. These animals are so at home in their environment, they scarcely acknowledge the presence of a boat filled with excited tourists.

Floating up to a patch of waterlilies, we are rewarded with a close encounter with a comb-crested jacana and his three fluffy chicks. These delicate little birds live and breed on these flotillas of plants, and are often referred to as ‘Jesus Bird’, as they appear to walk on water. The secret is their incredibly long toes that disperse their already minute weight.

Overhead, or in the trees, you’re likely to spot Australia’s second largest bird of prey, the white-breasted sea eagle. These majestic grey and white birds play a very important part in the mythology of the local Aboriginal people, being that it is a sea eagle spirit that guides their souls to the after life.

The Dry

As the rains of the monsoonal season give way to the dry, the rivers and billabongs begin to dry up, and Kakadu’s wildlife is brought together by their mutual need for water. Where months before the wildlife were able to roam over an area of thousands of square kilometres, they are now forced to cohabit in increasingly smaller bodies of water. This is the Kakadu that most tourists see, and it’s easy to understand why.

As the water temperature also drops at this time of year, salt water crocodiles haul themselves up onto the muddy banks of the rivers to warm up. This makes them easy to spot as you cruise by, and they seem oblivious to the commotion their sighting often incurs from the onlookers on the boat.

Birdlife is also much more concentrated than it was during the wet, with huge flocks taking to flight as you slowly make you way along the river. Some species that would have been hard to spot earlier are now easily sighted, such as the green pigmy-goose and the Radjah shellduck.

However, it was away from the bustle of the river cruises that I enjoyed my most memorable bird encounter. Whilst taking part in Connections three day Kakadu Dreaming Safari, I had my first ever sighting of the elusive Gouldian finch. These tiny little birds are found in small groups throughout the Top End and the Kimberley, but have become rare in recent years due to habitat destruction and changes in fire regimes. Although incredibly vibrant in colour they are often hard to spot amongst the grasses they feed on. What was most incredible about this sighting was that it was within two hundred metres of the Connections camp!

Yes, Kakadu is a place where nature still rules and we are merely passing through. But it’s also a place for everyday people to connect with nature, and to realise their dreams. I certainly did…

David Munro | Holiday Consultant